Home » Diesel Heater Glow Plug (Glow Pin) for 12V and 24V Heaters
Kyocera SN362 silicon nitride ceramic, made in Japan
70W or more, 1100°C (2012°F) within 60 seconds
12V: 0.4-0.6 ohm | 24V: 1.3-2.2 ohm, measured at 20°C (68°F)
M10 x 1 thread, ceramic 4.5 x 44.7 mm (0.18 x 1.76 in)
Fits Vvkb, Webasto-style, Eberspacher-style and Thermo King units
The glow plug is the part that lights a diesel air heater, and it is the part you will replace first. Everything else in the burner sits still. The glow pin runs a full heat cycle every time the heater starts. That is why it wears out before the fuel pump, the blower or the control board.
Vvkb fits a silicon nitride ceramic glow pin made by Kyocera in Japan. It is the same class of ceramic pin used in Webasto and Eberspacher air heaters, and it is not the wire-wound metal plug that ships inside budget units. This page covers what the part is, what it fits, how to test it, and how to change it without cracking the ceramic.
The part goes by several names. Glow plug, glow pin, glowpin and ignition plug all mean the same component, and heater listings use them interchangeably. Fitting one in place of a worn wire-wound plug counts as an upgrade, not just a repair.
If your heater will not light, start with the test procedure further down before you buy anything. About half the no-start faults on these heaters are the glow plug screen, not the plug.
The glow pin heats a stainless mesh screen soaked in diesel until the fuel vapour ignites, then the flame becomes self-sustaining and the pin switches off. It works for roughly the first minute of every start cycle. On a heater that runs all winter, that is several hundred heat cycles a season.
Two glow plug types exist in this market. Cheap heaters use a wire-wound metal pin: a resistance coil in a metal sheath. Premium heaters use a silicon nitride ceramic pin, where the heating element is buried inside a solid ceramic body.
The difference shows up in three places you can measure.
| Property | Wire-wound metal pin | Kyocera silicon nitride pin | What it means for you |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tip temperature | Varies with the coil, drops as it ages | 1100°C (2012°F) minimum at 60 seconds, to a build spec | A guaranteed number, not a hopeful one |
| Thermal expansion | Metal sheath, roughly 12 times 10-6/°C | 3.7 times 10-6/°C | The pin barely changes size cycling from -40°F to red heat, so the seal stays tight |
| Hardness | Soft, erodes and mushrooms | 17.1 GPa Vickers | Carbon scrapes off the tip instead of eating into it |
| Oxidation | Sheath oxidises, then the coil opens | Ceramic does not oxidise | No slow drift toward an open circuit |
| Failure mode | Fails open, usually mid-winter | Fails from mechanical shock, not from heat | Handle it gently and it lasts |
Correcting our own page: an earlier version of this page said the pin was silicon carbide. It is silicon nitride. Silicon carbide is a different ceramic with different thermal behaviour, and it is not what Kyocera uses in this part.
The 12V and the 24V pin are different parts, and the giveaway is the lead colour: green and yellow is 12V, blue and yellow is 24V. They share the same body, the same M10 x 1 thread and the same ceramic. What differs is the element resistance, and that decides everything.
The numbers below come off the Kyocera build drawings for the pins we fit, not off a marketplace listing.
| Specification | 12V heater pin | 24V heater pin |
|---|---|---|
| Kyocera type | STD-12VAH | STD-24VAH |
| Resistance at 20°C (68°F) | 0.4–0.6 ohm | 1.3–2.2 ohm |
| Rated supply | 9.0 ±0.1 VDC | 18.0 ±0.1 VDC |
| Tip temperature | 1100°C (2012°F) or hotter, 60 ±1 seconds after switch-on at rated voltage | |
| Power | 70 W or more (about 7.8 A at 9.0 V) | 70 W or more (about 3.9 A at 18.0 V) |
| Safe PWM supply range | 10–16 V | 20–30 V |
| Lead colours | Green and yellow | Blue and yellow |
| Element | Kyocera SN362 silicon nitride ceramic, 4.5 mm diameter (0.18 in) | |
| Ceramic length | 44.7 ±0.8 mm (1.76 in) | |
| Thread | M10 x 1, sealing body 13.4 mm across (0.53 in) | |
| Body ring | SUS430F stainless steel, alumina insulator, nickel coil rings | |
| Leads | 16 AWG copper, PFA fluoropolymer insulation, UL1726 rated, 200 and 215 mm long | |
| Terminal limit | Electrode terminal must stay below 300°C (572°F) — keep the boot seated | |
| Supplied as | Pre-wired pin with connector, grommet and seal. Nothing to crimp | |
| Pack sizes | 1, 10, 50 or 100 pieces | |
Read the resistance spec twice before you order. A 24V pin reads 1.3–2.2 ohm and a 12V pin reads 0.4–0.6 ohm. Those ranges do not overlap, which means your multimeter tells you which pin you are holding — and tells you whether the last person to service the heater fitted the right one.
The 2KW to 8KW diesel air heater category copied one mechanical interface, so a glow pin for a Chinese diesel heater, a Vevor unit and a Webasto-style clone is normally the same part. The plug threads into the burner head, the screen sits over the ceramic tip, and the two-wire connector goes back to the control board.
Three numbers decide fitment, and you can check all three with a caliper and a multimeter:
If those three match, the pin fits. The connector body is the only remaining variable, and it unclips.
| Heater | Fits | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Vvkb Apollo-V1, Apollo-V2 | Yes, direct | This is the factory part, same pin we build the heaters with |
| Chinese 2KW, 5KW and 8KW diesel heaters | Yes, in most cases | Covers the common Webasto-style clone burner head |
| Vevor diesel heater | Yes, in most cases | A Vevor glow plug and this ignition plug share the same burner interface |
| Eberspacher / Espar Airtronic D2, D4, D4S | Cross-reference 252069011300 (12V) | Same function and same fitting; confirm voltage before ordering |
| Webasto Air Top style units | Cross-reference by dimension | Match the M10 x 1 thread and the 44.7 mm ceramic length |
| Thermo King heaters | Yes | Thermo King units running the same M10 x 1 ceramic ignitor take this pin. Confirm 12V or 24V from the resistance, not from the picture |
| Planar / Autoterm air heaters | Check first | Screen and pin sizes differ across the range |
| Diesel engine glow plugs | No | Engine plugs are a different thread, a different length and a different current. See the FAQ |
One thing we will not claim: that this pin fits every parking heater on the market. It does not. If your heater is not on the list above, send a photo of the old pin next to a ruler through the contact page, with the thread size and the measured resistance. You get a yes or no before you spend money.
On a Vvkb heater, error codes E09 and E11 both mean glow plug failure. But the codes are the end of the story. The heater usually tells you something is wrong for a week or two before it locks out.
In order of how they usually appear:
Codes are brand-specific. An Eberspacher throws different numbers for the same fault, and so does a no-name unit. The full Vvkb list is on the diesel heater fault code page.
A 12V pin should read 0.4–0.6 ohm cold and a 24V pin 1.3–2.2 ohm, both measured at 20°C (68°F). Those are build-spec numbers, not rules of thumb. The test takes two minutes, but the first step is the one people skip.
One thing that catches people out: measuring at the connector during pre-glow will not show battery voltage. The controller drives the pin by pulse width, and the pin is built for 9.0 VDC on 12V systems and 18.0 VDC on 24V systems. Anything between 10–16 V (or 20–30 V on 24V) at the supply is within its designed range.
Resistance normal but the heater still will not light? Then the pin is not your problem. Check the glow plug screen, the fuel delivery and the ground path back to the control board, in that order. A pin that measures right and draws right is doing its job.
The stainless mesh screen around the ceramic tip is a consumable, and on most no-start faults it is the actual culprit. The screen wicks diesel and holds it against the hot pin. When it fills with carbon it stops wicking, and the pin ends up glowing in dry air.
Screens carbon up faster if you run the heater long hours on the lowest setting. Low power means a cool, incomplete burn. A weekly run at full output for 20–30 minutes burns the deposits back off.
Two rules that save you a second teardown:
Ceramic pins break from side load, not from heat, so the removal tool matters more than the torque wrench. A generic deep socket sits on the hex badly and levers the pin sideways. That is how most broken pins get broken.
Full teardown context is in the diesel heater installation guide, and the surrounding components are listed on the diesel heater parts page.
Expect 2–3 seasons of normal use from a ceramic glow pin, and considerably less from a wire-wound one. Life is counted in start cycles, not in running hours. A heater that cycles on and off all night ages its pin faster than one that runs steady.
Four things shorten that life, and three of them are free to avoid.
| What kills it | Why | What to do instead |
|---|---|---|
| Cutting power while it is running | No cool-down purge, so unburnt fuel cokes onto the pin and the screen | Always shut down from the control panel and let the cycle finish |
| Running on minimum all night | Cool, incomplete burn lays carbon on the screen | Run at full output for 20–30 minutes once a week |
| Dirty or waxed fuel | Poor atomisation, soot on the tip | Change the fuel filter yearly, use winter-grade diesel |
| Over-tightening on install | Cracks the ceramic body, which then fails weeks later | Hand start, light nip, no breaker bar |
Altitude also matters. A Vvkb control unit adjusts the air-fuel ratio automatically up to 11,483 ft (3,500 m), so combustion stays clean and the pin stays clean. Heaters without that adjustment soot up fast in the mountains — the detail is in the high altitude guide.
A glow plug is about 3% of what a diesel heater costs to build and close to 100% of whether it starts. That is the whole argument. Vvkb has been building diesel heaters in China since 1996, and the Kyocera pin is the part we refuse to substitute.
What you get from the factory rather than a marketplace listing:
The pins in Vvkb heaters are the same ones we sell here. You can see how the rest of the burner is built on the diesel heaters pages, and the certificate numbers for the heaters themselves are listed on the certifications page.
Measure it. A good pin reads 0.4–0.6 ohm on 12V or 1.3–2.2 ohm on 24V once you subtract your meter's lead resistance, and a dead one reads OL. Before it fails outright you will see longer starts, persistent white smoke, and a flame that lights then dies. On a Vvkb heater the controller finally reports E09 or E11.
Two to three seasons of normal use for a ceramic pin. Life depends on start cycles, not hours. Shutting the heater off at the switch instead of the control panel is the single fastest way to halve it, because the cool-down purge never runs and unburnt fuel cokes onto the pin.
No. The mounting interface is close to standard across 2KW to 8KW air heaters, but the element is not. A wire-wound metal pin and a Kyocera silicon nitride ceramic pin fit the same hole and behave completely differently at temperature. Voltage differs too, and the resistance gives it away: 0.4–0.6 ohm for 12V, 1.3–2.2 ohm for 24V.
Wipe the ceramic tip with a fine abrasive pad, and replace the screen rather than cleaning it. The ceramic is hard enough to take light cleaning without damage. The mesh screen is not worth saving — it costs very little and clogs from the inside where you cannot reach. Never soak the electrical end or bend the pin sideways.
0.4–0.6 ohm on a 12V pin and 1.3–2.2 ohm on a 24V pin, measured cold at 20°C (68°F). Those are the build-spec ranges for the Kyocera pin, and they do not overlap. Cheap multimeters add 0.2–0.5 ohm of their own lead resistance, which is why an untested meter makes a good 12V pin look marginal. Touch the probes together first and subtract that number.
No. There is no spark and no ignition coil. A diesel heater lights its fuel with a glow plug — a ceramic pin that heats up and vaporises diesel held in a mesh screen. People search for a diesel heater spark plug and land on this part, which is the right one.
No, and they are not interchangeable. An engine glow plug preheats a combustion chamber against compression pressure, with a different thread, length and current draw. A heater glow pin ignites an atomised fuel spray at atmospheric pressure. Fitting one in place of the other does not work.
In most cases yes. The Vevor diesel heater glow plug and this pin share the burner interface used across the 2KW, 5KW and 8KW clone family. Match the voltage — 12V or 24V — and compare the connector to the old one. If either differs, send a photo before ordering.
Yes, on Thermo King units that use the same M10 x 1 ceramic ignitor. Check three things against your old pin: the M10 x 1 thread, the 4.5 mm by 44.7 mm ceramic, and the resistance. If it reads 0.4–0.6 ohm you need the 12V pin, and 1.3–2.2 ohm means the 24V pin. Send us the unit model if you want it confirmed before you order.
252069011300 is the Eberspacher Airtronic D2 and D4 glow pin in 12V. Our pin does the same job in the same fitting, and the matching screen kit is 252069100102. It is a cross-reference, not a genuine Eberspacher part, so confirm your heater model with us if the unit is under warranty.
Use the dedicated glow plug removal tool. A generic deep socket seats badly on the hex and side-loads the ceramic, which is exactly how these pins break. If you only have a socket, keep it dead square to the pin and never lever against it.
Yes, every time. The screen is a consumable that clogs with carbon, and reaching it takes the identical teardown as changing the pin. Fitting a new pin behind a blocked screen reproduces the original no-start fault within days.
No. A 12V pin is 0.4–0.6 ohm and a 24V pin is 1.3–2.2 ohm, so the 12V part on a 24V supply draws roughly four times its rated power and burns out. Two ways to tell them apart: measure the resistance, or look at the leads. Green and yellow is the 12V pin, blue and yellow is the 24V pin.
No — only during start-up, roughly the first minute. Once the flame is self-sustaining the controller drops the pin out and the flame sensor takes over. A pin that stays energised means the heater is failing to establish a flame, which points at fuel delivery or the screen.
Check the screen, then the fuel, then the ground. A pin that reads correct resistance and pulls its rated 70 W is working. The usual order after that is a carboned screen, air in the fuel line or a tired fuel pump, then a poor ground back to the control unit.
Vvkb has been manufacturing diesel heaters in China since 1996. The Kyocera silicon nitride glow pin on this page is the production part out of our own heaters, in 12V and 24V, pre-wired and sealed.